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Thanks.
I was originally planning to have the third misfire with the cool spooling up sound but I just couldn't clean up the audio enough

Doing a little bit of weathering today.
You can see some of the imperfections of the rear grip here as well as the original colour of the resin showing through.

I'm keeping it fairly light, just getting the thrower to the point where it looks aged with some scuffs and dulling to the finish with the placement based on reference of the screen used throwers, toned down quite a bit to represent a look closer to mid production wear instead of 37 years of weathering as seen today. I'm also using some fullers earth to age it down a little and get rid of that factory fresh paint look.
From there it'll be left to weather naturally with the rest of the pack.

JWils23 wrote: ↑March 27th, 2021, 6:42 pm Right now when I flip the activate switch it turns the pack on and the arcolectric lights on the thrower but not the bar graph. Then when I flip the vent switch the light and bar graph come one. I’d like it to be accurate to the movie where the bar graph is scrolling before the vent light comes on.

I'm not sure if you've since figured this out, feel free to ignore this if you have.
Here's how to get what you're looking for.

After flipping the activate switch, once the wand has had a second or two to fully "boot up" press the intensify button.
This will switch the light sequence, illuminating the forward hatlight next to the clippard, the slo-blo and giving you the scroll on the bargraph without having to flip the vent switch instead of the bargraph being off, the slo-blo on and the white arcolectric and forward hatlight flashing alternately (which is the default for some reason).

You can also press the red gunear button at this point which will toggle illumination for the orange gun ear hatlight.
This is basically a safety or standby mode where the push buttons only function is to select standby light sequence options.

Once you hit the vent switch the safety is off and the thrower will fully boot up, acting as normal and changing the push buttons functions to fire and secondary fire or venting etc depending on your desired setup.

The wand will also save your selected standby lighting sequence once you turn it off, providing it is still receiving power from the battery.

My descriptive powers aren't great so I'll try to take a video in the morning to illustrate the point.

Ah so that was the key all along! I knew about hitting the push button on the ear to turn on the orange hat light but not hitting the activate one to turn on the bar graph. Thanks for doing this video, as soon as I saw it I was like duhhh that’s it!

No problem
It didn't click for me either until i started messing about with the wand.
It's covered in the manual but not in the clearest way.

Like Matt Burkit has previously shown on his Omni pack build, I had an inaccuracy to correct after the undeniable proof of the original method of attachment for the bellows which Jack Doud provided in the form of this 4K screen grab.
It shows that the bellows in the first movie was attached only to the bumper and not bolted through the cyclotron with a large bolt and spacer as they appeared from GB2 onwards.



So I had to remove the large bolt and spacer then reattach the bellows using a hex bolt and a hole to fill in the cyclotron.
I used some epoxy putty, blended in to match the texture as closely as I could.
It'll need a bit of satin black paint to fully blend it in once the putty has cured but after that and some dust settling back on that spot it should be pretty much invisible.

Neat.

Another thing to remember when I come to build a GB1 pack. Thinking about it though, it could prove a bit more complicated to get the bumper centered and spaced over the cyclotron without that bolt?

l3w1sb159 wrote: ↑April 17th, 2021, 11:05 am Another thing to remember when I come to build a GB1 pack. Thinking about it though, it could prove a bit more complicated to get the bumper centered and spaced over the cyclotron without that bolt?

It shouldn't be.
Its very aparent when the bumper is off centre due to the way the edge lines up infront of the cyclotron lense holes.
Just drill the mounting holes for the bumper in between the first and second plates on the right hand side and between the third and fourth on the left hand side and it should align nicely

Here's a couple more shots, showing the lack of bolt/spacer on the Murray and Hudson hero packs.

Not much to report on this at the moment.
Just waiting for a set of elbows and some dry rubs and it'll be done.
Well, until I decide something needs to be upgraded

I got a hold of some dry transfers to finish off the thrower.
I also replaced the damaged transfer on the N-Filter.

Some tweaks here and there and the pack will be good to go until i can justify a couple of minor planned upgrades.

Looking phenomenal, the dry rubs really make an amazing difference. Looking forward to whatever upgrades may come!

Thanks, J
They really do make all the difference.

Nothing major planned for now.
I have to change out the PH-25 for the accurate version, add better elbows as I'm using SMC placeholders and I'd like to get Mack's decals at some point but I can't justify the cost right now.
Maybe tweaks to the weathering, too as I go along.

A fresh lick of paint on the old SMC elbows and the addition of some 4mm ID brass tube.
Far from ideal but they'll do the job until I upgrade them.

I've a been pondering what to do in order to add wheels to the case that I bought previously to transport the Proton Pack for a while now.
I finally found a heavy duty cart dolly that fit the bill perfectly.
It's adjustable to fit the length of the case perfectly and it also collapses for easy storage.
I just need to add a couple of ratchet straps for extra stability and pad out the inside of the case, then it'll be good to go.

Not a bad way to transport your unlicensed nuclear accelerator!

I'll apologise in advance for the sheer number of images in this post.
I had a photo shoot with the Hero Pack today and got a bit carried away .
So here's a completely self indulgent photo dump of the many pics that were taken.

As I've parroted before, I was going for a mid production look with minimal weathering, at least to start with.
I still have a few wee changes that I need to make, as I've already covered but It's officially Con ready.

Holy mother of Cthulhu - that is truly a thing of beauty!
You have every right to be proud - and more than forgiven for the "self indulgent" post - this is true inspiration for all those that follow.

Thanks for the kind words, Nighty

How much of the texture did you sand down before adding your own texture and paint. Perfect job.

There wasn't much in the way of orange peel texture on the shell when I got it, just a number of spots which felt like rough sandpaper.
I smoothed those down and left everything else as is to allow some surface imperfections to come through after painting.

Such a beautiful pack! It’s all the more impressive considering you built most of the aluminum parts yourself. My hat is off to you, well done!

One detail I really think you nailed (and it’s very subtle) is the positioning of the trigger tip and barrel collar. They sit so close just like the movie, I have a bit of a gap on mine and I wish I could tighten it up. I know it sounds trivial but it’s the little details like that which I love!

Thanks very much, J
I can't tell you how many hours I've agonised over little things like that.

It's those little details that I always appreciate the most on other folks builds, too.
I love seeing all the little hero quirks that pack builders transpose onto their pack.
Like you say, it might sound trivial (to some) but so much of the screen used packs character comes from them.

Couldn’t agree more! It’s the little details and imperfections that really bring them to life.

RedSpecial wrote: ↑May 14th, 2020, 12:15 pm For anyone looking for these cases it's the Boschma 4-11-8u-he.
I know, catchy name.

Thanks! Just bought one of these for my pack.

Beautiful pack can't wait to start mine.
Where did you find red 4mm nycoil tubing if you don't mind.

Thanks!

I bought that more than a decade ago when it was still fairly easy to find.
I haven't been able to track any down for ages though.