Speaker cover mod and crank from Etsy. Taped both front and rear grips.
But wait there's more...
I an trying to figure out if I want to cut the battery hatch in the aluminum board or run the wires
through the board with a disconnect and have the battery pack sit on the alice frame...
What are your thoughts?
There is NO Orange Mafia
My setup as of now consists of:
Ear and hat light
New wand trigger box
Cables for the kit and board
Light covers for the wand
Vent kit with USB cable
Random hard ware
Nightlight for upper vent and lighting
But it's cool to know a totally functional set up can happen for these packs! Can't wait to see what you all make! Share some pics when ya can!
Elliott52 wrote: ↑October 9th, 2023, 3:02 pm Where did you get the aluminum motherboard from, by the way?Redman Studio Workshop under "No Ghosts" I also have their Haslab overlay board.His stuff is top notch and looks good installed on my pack.
3D Printed Cyclotron bumper installed: Gun Track added to the wand:I decided to get the metallic labels from Moby Sign Company just like I have on my Haslab pack on this one.
Originals: Moby Signs Metallic Labels: Originals:Metallic:These are the "weathered" ones and the difference is like night and day! Pictures do not do them justice.
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There is NO Orange Mafia
hawkbatsquadron wrote: ↑November 12th, 2023, 10:36 am Does this help?Thank you!! Is there anyway you can get in between the gaps with a MM ruler and see the length between one of the ribs and the base? Like Stephan's plans:
First thing I did was revamp a few Arduino projects I'd previously used with my Spirit 80% scale pack to work with a state machine. This greatly simplified the logic of the pack and made it 10x easier to work with. I've published the code on GitHub, but the README leaves out a lot of the slimy details (like hardware, wiring, etc). If people are interested I'll backfill these details.
I used some mouth words to describe why a state machine and some of the coding choices I made were so impactful:
Also if you just want to see the pack in action I've got that video here:
I'll post a few pictures of the interesting mods I made. Because I wanted to make sure I was "Halloween Ready" I didn't end up taking on repainting and replacing the hardware on the main pack body, but that's on my list of "things to do". I also hope to introduce a pack attenuator.
Motherboard is MDF painted black and cut to fit the shell. I decided to use rare earth magnets to hold the shell to the motherboard. The fit is nice and snug and the majority of the weight is anchored to the motherboard itself. I wore this thing trick-or-treating all Halloween 2023 and had zero issues. I have a poorly manufactured ALICE frame attached to the motherboard via a few 3D printed stand offs. The motherboard also has my 2.1 audio system and batteries attached to it.
The wand underwent the most modifications, including adding working toggle switches, buttons, opening up the vents, bondo filling the existing holes, cutting a slot for the bar graph, and fitting the aviation connector into the wand hilt. I've also added a volume control / push button inside the front knob (inspired by arpehem's build). The end result allows me to switch the pack into "music" mode and FF through different tracks while still enabling the normal animations and functionality to play out.
Egon2023 wrote: ↑October 2nd, 2023, 2:22 pm Hello fellow busters! I am doing some heavy modification to the entire full size Proton pack and wand. So far so good. However I came across a problem when trying to install a real Clippard Valve on the wand. I was able to use some tools to cut off the plastic one which comes with the wand, and was going to install a real one on top of the base of the plastic clippard, but the real one is slightly bigger, so I can't use the base part to simply drill in holes and be done because it extends just a bit over. Since it's heavy, I need to have it screwed in. One side is screwed and the other can't in this setup. My best solution was to buy some plastic moldable epoxy (J-B Weld 8237 PlasticWeld Plastic Repair Epoxy Putty) and I was thinking of building out the plastic fake clippard base just enough so the real one can go on top of it and I can drill a screw hole in that to get everything to fit nice. A bit more of a job that I initially set out to do, but I think it will work. Just curious if anyone has tried to do this mod on their life size spirit packs, if so please let me know. The area is weird because that part of the wand actually slides out and if I were to cut the entire standard plastic clippard base off, there would be nothing to screw the real one into, which is why I left it for that purpose. I'll add some pictures if I can later as well. THANKS.A month later so you've probably moved on, but:
Maybe epoxy a nut on the inside, and then thread that second mounting screw right into it? Should hold it nice and sturdy.
I'd like to read it
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