#4874002
I'm feeling a lot better about the repair this morning. Sleeping on it sometimes helps the OCD! I showed it to my brother who loves GB but isn't a member here (he's' a bit forum shy!), and he thought it looked fantastic! He loved the new welds, and he thought the extra thickness wouldn't really show once finished.
The join is a very tricky one - you'd need to make an extra bit to fill in that gap but attaching it to the alloy handle nice and flush may be very difficult, especially as welds are already in place...and then the join would have to be hidden somehow...raising the surface would be the easier solution if you can live with the resulting difference in height...although it would have to be a pretty thick battery box cover needed to do this from what I can see there
I'm not sure what you mean here- I think we may be talking about a different join, the gap underneath the handle seems to be present on the hero so i'm not too worried about that.

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I'll have to fill in the cutout made for the release catch however. The join I was referring to is the one between the two materials:

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I can fill it but it means paint must be used rather than alu black. I may try masking the edge and painting the front panel, with the metal parts still being blacked. As they are on different planes, it should make the difference in finish harder to spot.
The 3D doors are definitely no good with the off-centre join - shame - as for the side rods, I'll be sticking to the resin kit for these parts if the alloy counterparts are not a possible option. I'll do the same with the doors as well if all else fails. Momeraths24 is definitely fully booked at the moment, I checked out his thread earlier and saw how busy he has been of late. I'm having positive results with my aluminium plates however, as CPU64 is in the middle of producing these, with 45-degree beveled edges to boot! I should ask if he can run up some doors and rods for us as well perhaps?
Yeah it looks like i'll be doing likewise for the moment as they will look the part when closed. The best way to get the side plates accurate bevel wise is to have them shear cut. My battery box lid and L/H side plates were both shear cut and it's not a constant 45 degrees. It tends to be slightly more at either end and less in the middle i've noticed. From studying the reference pics zoomed in, i think the hero ones were shear cut AND filed to smooth them out; So that's what I've tried to match. I'm deliberately going for the hand made look the hero has though, you may want yours a bit tidier! :)

It would be great if you could ask him about doing us a mini-run :) The door dimensions i've arrived at with the ears mounted GB1 style (further forward) are:

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Nicks standard ones will be a bit rattly in there without spacers as his kit is normally built with the ears in a more GB2 position, mounted further back.
Thanks so much for the soffit strip - marking out the vent and bolt holes would be very helpful indeed; just send me a PM when ready so that I can cover you for it :)
No problem at all. Us Brits have to stick together as it's that much harder for us to pull these projects off on this side of the pond! lol :)
barison82 liked this
#4874219
damster117 wrote:I'll have to fill in the cutout made for the release catch however.
Lol yes I was referring to the gap which I've now learnt is the cut-out for the release catch (where the handle base sits above the battery box cover?) I didn't realise what that was for and thought that was the gap you were talking about! I see what you mean now, thanks to your reference photo. These are very small details - I would never have realised! I could live with those minor differences however, but I know you are trying to achieve a very authentic replica...
damster117 wrote:I can fill it but it means paint must be used rather than alu black. I may try masking the edge and painting the front panel, with the metal parts still being blacked. As they are on different planes, it should make the difference in finish harder to spot.
I get ya. That sounds like a good idea - hopefully should work!
damster117 wrote:The best way to get the side plates accurate bevel wise is to have them shear cut. My battery box lid and L/H side plates were both shear cut and it's not a constant 45 degrees. It tends to be slightly more at either end and less in the middle i've noticed. From studying the reference pics zoomed in, i think the hero ones were shear cut AND filed to smooth them out; So that's what I've tried to match. I'm deliberately going for the hand made look the hero has though, you may want yours a bit tidier! :)
I believe my plates are being shear cut as well - but again, I was not aware of all these small details - but I am not really fussed over replicating every single detail myself; as with my pack build, I'm treating the trap as a 2016 production build of a 1984 design lol. But awesome stuff - you really are taking a lot of time and effort to get yours exact! :)
damster117 wrote:It would be great if you could ask him about doing us a mini-run :)
I will do - and thanks a lot for those measurements - a massive help! Do you know what the thickness of the metal should be also? I'll forward the info you've given to CPU and see what he says :)
damster117 wrote:No problem at all. Us Brits have to stick together as it's that much harder for us to pull these projects off on this side of the pond! lol :)
Thanks so much, and I agree, we do! It's a very difficult hobby here in the UK actually, and at times you can feel quite isolated with it, when resources are so hard to come by to make it all work.
#4874314
I believe my plates are being shear cut as well - but again, I was not aware of all these small details - but I am not really fussed over replicating every single detail myself; as with my pack build, I'm treating the trap as a 2016 production build of a 1984 design lol. But awesome stuff - you really are taking a lot of time and effort to get yours exact! :)
If they are shear cut they will look great as is really- and much better than the usual laser or water jet cut with hard, square edges. I think maybe I am being overly fussy now though. I think i'm going to stop nit-picking and get moving onto the fun stuff!
I will do - and thanks a lot for those measurements - a massive help! Do you know what the thickness of the metal should be also? I'll forward the info you've given to CPU and see what he says :)
I think it should be 0.25", this is slightly thicker than Nick's originals (which are about 0.23") but would give enough depth to allow for the pocket machining in the back, which is about 4-4.5mm deep. As the hero trap sides were made from 0.25" Alu I believe, it would make sense that the doors were too. Also I have one of my measurements wrong! I just double-checked and the length of the main part of the doors should be 169mm / 6.65" and NOT 167mm / 6.57"!

BUT... we now have another option in case we can't get these made in metal. Countspatula has added new corrected 3D files to thingiverse, with the join in the right place :) I'm sure that with minor modification these can be made to fit our traps. I'm quite willing to be the guinea pig for this if the need arises lol!

Plus there's an unexpected benefit of using 3D doors- You get the textured tape effect the hero has!

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Thanks so much, and I agree, we do! It's a very difficult hobby here in the UK actually, and at times you can feel quite isolated with it, when resources are so hard to come by to make it all work.
Yeah you're not wrong. I dread the phrase "just picked it up in Home Depot" or similar! We just don't seem to have the range of obscure stuff in our DIY chains here. Not to mention the old metric-imperial issues!
#4874388
Hi! That's cool regarding the shear cut method, it'll be interesting to see the plates once finished. Lol this is the thing with all this - it can really make you mega OCD [emoji50] Detail after detail...

Thanks for those revised measurements: can you update the photo reference of the doors with the corrected info? As this would be extremely useful to send to CPU [emoji4][emoji106]

Regarding the 3D doors - excellent news. I'll have to look into 3D printing and how to have that done! As that textured effect is pretty awesome - just the two bits of tape on it and already you can see the 'magic' lol. Great stuff!

Lol yeah, and obscure is the word for most of the original parts required. The film was made over 30 years ago, with most of the parts themselves having already been around since the 1960s-1970s, and are now pretty much obsolete, and rare. The measurements can be highly confusing as well!
Last edited by barison82 on July 29th, 2016, 11:36 am, edited 1 time in total.
#4874437
Thanks for those revised measurements: can you update the photo reference of the doors with the corrected info? As this would be extremely useful to send to CPU [emoji4][emoji106]


Yes I can :)

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Regarding the 3D doors - excellent news. I'll have to look into 3D printing and how to have that done! As that textured effect is pretty awesome - just the two bits of tape on it and already you can see the 'magic' lol. Great stuff!
I used 3dhubs.com to get my first set printed. Basically you just upload your files and it presents you with a load of UK printing hubs to choose from. I think both doors came out at £15! I do really like the texture! The door lugs would need chopping down a little at the ends to fit however as they are about 5mm too long. The lugs are longer than Nicks originals in proportion to the doors though so it should, in theory be doable. They are also slightly wider and longer overall at 79mm, so 2mm per side more overlap. I was going to give these doors away but it might be worth trying the mods on these first before committing to getting a new set printed.

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#4874478
Many thanks for the revised photo ref - this has been submitted to CPU together with a very polite and hopeful request :) I will let you know as soon as I hear back!
damster117 wrote:I used 3dhubs.com to get my first set printed.
Awesome - thanks for this, will look into it. £15 is very reasonable...and the mods required seem fairly straight forward as well. I'll consider this as another back-up plan; pending the outcome on the alu ones. The texture is awesome though!
#4874568
Hi! Just got word back from CPU already - he is waiting to receive a set of alu doors himself, from Franchesky, who makes trap kits on his CNC (they are working on a Hero build as well). He wants to look at these and compare the measurements so he will let me know what he can come up with...I ordered a trap holster and Matty trap v-hook conversion from Franchesky last year, all top-notch, but I have seen that he has a backlog of work at the moment and has fallen behind orders, so I will wait on CPU.

Lol I will fall back to plans B & C as well!

Side rod measurements would be handy, thanks [emoji4][emoji106]
#4874570
The original resin side rods measure 84mm (3.32") x 13mm (0.51"), while the 3D print ones come out at 76mm (3") x 12.6mm 0.5".

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I'm not sure which would be better size wise really I'm undecided. The original resin ones look maybe a little oversized to me? I really can't make my mind up. I'm starting to go boss-eyed looking at all these reference pics!

Resin:

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Hero:
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Just got word back from CPU already - he is waiting to receive a set of alu doors himself, from Franchesky, who makes trap kits on his CNC (they are working on a Hero build as well). He wants to look at these and compare the measurements so he will let me know what he can come up with...
Ok that's great :) Franchesky already has these measurements though as i've been in contact with him about doing the doors already. He did say that he hadn't forgotten about them but it's all gone quiet. I think he's just a bit overwhelmed at the moment!

Oh well, I guess i'll just have to work on getting this lot in the cartridge in the meantime!

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#4874860
Hi! Thanks for those measurements: the resin side rods would be my choice, they are more accurate (the bevelled ends are a better match I think and the size looks right when mounted on the side plate - the space either end matches well with the Hero). Definitely my choice, hands down!

I remember you said that you had been in contact with Franchesky earlier - yes he is most certainly overwhelmed at the moment, so it would be worth seeing if CPU can come up with something himself [emoji4][emoji106]

Oh wow look at all those electronics! I haven't even covered this area yet either - I just don't know where to start. Is there a list of parts somewhere that you referred to so you knew what bits to get? As I'm completely lost on this part. Looks like you have an e-cig kit from Spongeface in there? But all those other bits...
#4874872
Yes I think you're right about the side rod dimensions. The others do seem too small looking at them today lol!

Hopefully CPU will be able to sort us out with some doors :)

As for the electronics, I'm using a hyperdyne light kit with optional servo board to open the doors. The ecig isn't a kit, I made it myself :) that's why the clearomisers are "slime pink" rather than the usual clear ones- thought I'd add a fictional purpose to them!
#4875053
damster117 wrote:Yes I think you're right about the side rod dimensions. The others do seem too small looking at them today lol!

Hopefully CPU will be able to sort us out with some doors :)

As for the electronics, I'm using a hyperdyne light kit with optional servo board to open the doors. The ecig isn't a kit, I made it myself :) that's why the clearomisers are "slime pink" rather than the usual clear ones- thought I'd add a fictional purpose to them!
Yeah I definitely think the resin ones are the most accurate :cool:

I really hope so too. Just have to be very patient on this one - I will keep you informed!

Awesome stuff - really cool how you've rigged up that ecig. I'll do a bit more reading up because I just don't have a clue how to do the electronics side of the build...these are the hurdles that put me off doing it at all lol
#4875057
Just checked out the Hyperdyne site...I had no idea! This is awesome - the complete light kit and door control setup is available, what a relief!
#4875061
barison82 wrote: I really hope so too. Just have to be very patient on this one - I will keep you informed!
Cheers :)
Awesome stuff - really cool how you've rigged up that ecig. I'll do a bit more reading up because I just don't have a clue how to do the electronics side of the build...these are the hurdles that put me off doing it at all lol
The kit I'm using should be relatively straightforward, it's mostly plug n play with some minor soldering. For the ecig, there's a tutorial on here somewhere, but again it's only a little bit of soldering and electrical tape. Fairly basic stuff really it's just a fish tank air pump blowing air into an ecig. You can get all the bits to make one on eBay. Really I've had to do all this stuff myself to save money, as to buy a smoke kit and get it sent internationally would cost rather a lot for what it actually is!
#4875063
No worries - you're welcome mate.

That's cool - I'll have a little reading session this afternoon! Sounds fun putting one together actually. I understand the money aspect all too well, in fact the light & door kit will cost a bit looking at it, with postage from the USA again - gonna have to wait as I still need the kit anyway...this trap needs a lot of parts!
#4875386
damster117 wrote:Yup it makes that part easier! I'd really like sounds too but I haven't found a solution to that yet.
It certainly does. Had a big question mark over that area until yesterday. Will save up for it now! Sounds...I'm mixed on that one. I've got them with the Matty trap lol.

Also where would you put the speaker? As that feature would muck up the screen accuracy, as per the Matty trap...
#4875394
barison82 wrote: It certainly does. Had a big question mark over that area until yesterday. Will save up for it now! Sounds...I'm mixed on that one. I've got them with the Matty trap lol.
I missed out on the Matty one,and there's no way I'm paying the silly money they change hands for now! Lol! At the very least I'd like the trap to beep when it's "full" :)
Also where would you put the speaker? As that feature would muck up the screen accuracy, as per the Matty trap...
That's an easy one, behind one of the vents :)
#4875541
damster117 wrote:I missed out on the Matty one,and there's no way I'm paying the silly money they change hands for now! Lol! At the very least I'd like the trap to beep when it's "full" :)
They are going for a ridiculous amount, I know. Making your own does result in a more accurate prop, which is why I've decided to give it a go too. I got the Matty trap last year in a fit of excitement as I discovered it accidentally; I didn't even realise there was such a thing, and I was oblivious to the prop scene completely. That's when it all began - with the Matty trap discovery!
That's an easy one, behind one of the vents :)
If it's behind the vent on the side of the cartridge, won't the sounds be somewhat muffled when it's inside the casement?
#4875557
They are going for a ridiculous amount, I know. Making your own does result in a more accurate prop, which is why I've decided to give it a go too. I got the Matty trap last year in a fit of excitement as I discovered it accidentally; I didn't even realise there was such a thing, and I was oblivious to the prop scene completely. That's when it all began - with the Matty trap discovery!
Is the Matty one very inaccurate? I've never really studied it closely as it was clear I wouldn't be getting one!

Once the prop bug bites it bites hard! lol! I've been addicted a long time now ever since I stumbled across the RPF many moons ago! The trap is actually my first GB item even though i've loved the films (yes BOTH of them) since my childhood. I have all sorts of replica items and a couple of screen used bits too from other films. It's easy to get carried away! lol
If it's behind the vent on the side of the cartridge, won't the sounds be somewhat muffled when it's inside the casement?
It's not pressed hard up against the trap sides so I think if it does muffle it it would only be a little. Where is the speaker on the Matty?
#4875909
I managed to get two. One I left mostly stock (added an accurate light cap on the main body) and the other is my experimental one.

The differences are so minir, you'd only really notice if you had a fully accurate trap next to the Mattel trap for comparison
#4875930
damster117 wrote:Is the Matty one very inaccurate? I've never really studied it closely as it was clear I wouldn't be getting one!

Once the prop bug bites it bites hard! lol! I've been addicted a long time now ever since I stumbled across the RPF many moons ago! The trap is actually my first GB item even though i've loved the films (yes BOTH of them) since my childhood. I have all sorts of replica items and a couple of screen used bits too from other films. It's easy to get carried away! lol


It's not pressed hard up against the trap sides so I think if it does muffle it it would only be a little. Where is the speaker on the Matty?

There are a few details on the Matty trap that are inaccurate - the way the doors are designed is one of them; the labels, although I've modded mine and added accurate ones, also replaced the ribbon cable on the pedal for a real one...but it is still a damn good replica and I love the features - sounds and vibration/knocking of the ghost inside.

Damn does it bite hard or what! Interesting how you have started with the trap as well [emoji50] It is so addictive and I love searching and collecting all the bits. Your collection sounds awesome!

That should work then I guess...the speaker is on the bottom of the Matty trap, near the v-hook (I have an aluminium v-hook & battery plate mod fitted so it can attach to my trap holster; I'll borrow the v-hook to use on my other trap as well when needed)
#4875931
I agree with zeta, the aesthetic differences are minor really - I guess the biggest difference physically would be that it's all plastic! That's where a build-your-own prop is really superior
#4875948
barison82 wrote:I agree with zeta, the aesthetic differences are minor really - I guess the biggest difference physically would be that it's all plastic! That's where a build-your-own prop is really superior
I've been toying with the idea of making a copy of the Mattel trap body out of aluminum or at least wood or resin for a while now. I just don't really have the time to throw at a project like that.
#4879796
damster117 wrote:Thanks man. They're like family aren't they so it hits you hard when you lose them.
It really does man. Looking forward to you getting back to this
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