#4938697
I can Tell you First hand It's Going to be Ok its fiberglass and resin you can fix it and yes that will be frustrating but know its not ruined at all. Do you have a side picture of ware the bumper mounts, "with out the bumper installed so we can see the holes" and How did you level your pack? It will help any one that see's this understand whats going on with your shell, Sometimes the brick or side plate at the 6 o'clock position could be off.
#4938698
On the plus side it looks like there isnt anything wrong with the symmetry on your pack.

Take this as you will, but it looks like everything is aligned the way it should be.
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Could you have a warped bumper?

If you haven't already try laying your bumper down with the legs on a flat surface. That should tell you if one leg is at an odd angle.
EnderWeggen liked this
#4938732
I agree the symmetry is correct from hole to hole. And drilled the mounting holes in between the two exterior plates on the synch-gen as shown. Is that where they are supposed to go?

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Visually, it should line up just right. I don't know...

I'm going to fill in the holes with some Bondo fiberglass repair and some all-purpose putty and start over. I'll figure it out. Just frustrated. Things were going so well before and now nothing seems to go right. Oh, well.
#4938763
You drilled the holes in the right spot. You should really check to make sure your bumper isnt warped in some way though. A twisted bumper could do what you are seeing. Course your holes may not be straight as well. You can check the second by removing the top most screw and just leaving the bottom screw attached.
EnderWeggen liked this
#4938782
On the inside I applied a generous amount of Bondo (still not fond of the stuff), and a little less on the outside to seal the holes and hopefully prevent chipping when I redrill. I guess the holes weren't 100% exact, but they were in line with each other. I used a narrow dowel and a level to make sure.

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Then, I decided to sculpt the ends of the bumper to make it longer as the underside nearly touched the cyclotrom. Obviously, not the finished products shown, just the drying putting.

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Last thing I did was make absolutely sure that the bumper was level. And I checked to make sure the arms aren’t warped (they aren’t).

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I’m going to spend a lot of time reshaping the ends of the bumper to make sure the lines are sharp.
#4939118
My reordered motherboard arrived, so it was time to learn from my mistakes and finally give Gladys her backbone.

This time, I would be prepared. I traced the outline onto a sheet of foamboard to use as a template. I mounted the brackets to the inside of the pack so they would hold their place, then pressed down hard onto the foam, creating and indent of where the brackets rested on the MB. Then, it was only a matter of placing the brackets in their indents, tracing the spot, and marking the holes. To make absolutely sure there were no errors, I used sticky-tac to hold the mounting brackets in place on the template and positioned the pack shell over them. All was perfect, so I marked it out.

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But, you can probably guess what happened next…

While ¾ of the brackets were positioned correctly for the shell to slip over them, the one on the gun mount was off by a good half an inch. UGH! And the previously drilled ¼-20 threaded holes on my brackets no longer lined up with the holes in the shell, for some reason…Ugh, again.

So, I had to break out my nemesis, Bondo, to plug the holes in the MB.

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And also, on the brackets, because the holes were off, but not far enough for a clean retapping. So, I had to bore them out and fill them.

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While the Bondo dried, I went to work applying the decals that I have.

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And I went ahead and redid the weathering on the ion end cap so that more black was in the center, like on the production props.

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Now, with the Bondo dry, I was able to drill out my brackets through the hole in the shell to make sure they lined up right.

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But I knew that there was no way I would feel comfortable with just Bondo supporting the weight. That’s when I thought it would be easier to use a nut to secure the screw, though I had no way to access the back of the bracket to fasten it with the shell on.

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Quite the predicament. How to use the nut to secure the shell on if I can’t get to the nut?

The answer: leave the nut in place so the screw threads in and out like the threaded holes I originally had. And how do you keep the nut where it’s supposed to be? JB Weld.

Lots of JB Weld.

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#4939353
I don't know if It's the same experience I had but I use Krylon Satin paint and while it's not supposed to do that, on occasion it would leave black dust and running my hands on the paint would leave residue on my hands.

I would try to see if maybe wiping the powdery substance off with a dry cloth would work first before using any other spray on top of it. Just make sure you use something that won't leave fibers to get stuck on the surface of the paint.
EnderWeggen liked this
#4939364
Glenn is Absolutely wright it is not supposed to do that but from experience using the same paint it can when its applied wrong. Some Tips Read the instructions it should tell you the spray distance you need to apply the paint from like hold can one foot from painting surfaces, also its a proton pack it will have overspray in odd places you will not be able to avoid it, I would Recommend using a DRY Paint brush and your hand to test areas ware you find Dust or the Overspray. Last Make sure the can is well shaken this will help a little but no matter how you paint a Flat paint you are always going to have to do some clean up just make sure the paint is good and cured before you start trying to remove the Overspray

Same Paint as yours and its fine once I cleaned it up
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#4939466
I really went to town on the shell with some sandpaper, canned air, and a fine brush to get rid of all of the excess powder and to clean up some of the more obvious areas where the paint had puckered and looked like the pack had goosebumps. Then it was time for a respray. I made sure to keep the can moving and at an adequate distance from the shell, letting the paint drift down instead of splatting onto the surface. The results are much better.

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Next, it was time to place the colored lenses that I purchased from GBFans. I was a little nervous because, even after quite a bit of sanding, the underside surface was still uneven. So, I decided to “weld” the acrylic discs in place using a plastic repair putty.

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Seems sturdy and not as messy as glues or Bondo.

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I think it looks pretty good.

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Coming soon, it’s time for Gladys to meet ALICE.

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EnderWeggen, RedSpecial liked this
#4939573
Received my resin Legris from a friend and drilled out the 5/32 hole to fit the tubing. I just so happened to have rods the right size to hold firm so I could paint easily.
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Also, in the mail I got my correct straps and pads. The kidney pad has the GB2-style gray plastic clasp.
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It took a little bit of work and some grunting, but I got the things on. Now, I have to take them off and wash them because they reek like stagnant salt water.
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The good news is that with my new additions, plus what’s coming this week, I should have a completed shell by the weekend.
#4939675
With the Legris elbows painted and dry, it was time to go full AVENGERS and assemble. So, I got Gladys all dressed up for a fun night in.

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I think they look pretty good. Can't even tell they're painted resin.

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Now, I have been working and working on this ribbon cable, trying to decrease the stiffness in it, but it is as stubborn as I am. I mounted it anyway.

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Then, I put on the red hoses.

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Next, the yellow and blue hoses, the split loom, and the bumper.

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And, finally, the injector lines.

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This wouldn’t be an update from me unless there was some obnoxious problem that I ran into. And here it is. My Clippard elbow on the ion end cap snapped at the threads! No, I didn’t over-tighten it. I was threading it by hand and had only gone a few twists, and I’m no Superman. JB Weld to the rescue—hopefully.

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With any luck, I’ll get the pack finished and mounted this weekend. Then, all I have to do is wait for my wand kit.

I’m not adding lights/sound just yet. I’ve got two kids and Christmas is looming. I probably won’t even go into that much detail for the wand; leave it as a wearable prop without all the bells and whistles.
#4939773
I'm stuck on the mesh screen for inside the N-filter. Not sure exactly what to use, or how to get it to stay put.

I have a white mesh from a gutter cover and some silver metal mesh from a filter, but they just fall out. I have tried wrapping them around some pipe insulation foam, but when I cram the foam into the filter, it shoves the mesh out of place.

Besides the gun hook, this is the last thing I need to complete my pack's body.
#4939783
SpiderFan2k3 wrote: September 25th, 2020, 2:21 pm I'm stuck on the mesh screen for inside the N-filter. Not sure exactly what to use, or how to get it to stay put.
I used mesh to fix damaged bodywork, and I just hot-glued it in place.

Alternately what about duct tape?

Though if you want something a bit more robust, a metal sleeve to fit it over, which'd hold it inside the inner diameter of the N-Filter?
EnderWeggen liked this
#4940157
I was able to come up with a functional, yet imperfect solution to my N-filter screen.

The company I work for makes these little filters for our breather caps.

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They’re about 2 inches in diameter and soft enough to expand into tight places.

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The trouble was the color and being able to get the thing down inside the cast N-filter. So, I put together a few leftovers. Some 2-inch rubber washers and some carriage bolts.

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And tightened with a nut (but not too tight because it smooshed everything out of shape). The only thing left was the color, but some black electrical tape fixed that.

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And a little rubber cement to hold the gutter mesh in place…

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And it fit just fine.

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Now, with the carriage bolt, I can easily remove the thing. Also, I may end up gluing a magnet in the base of the filter so that it would hold tight, but still be able to be removed when needed.
#4940548
Starting work on the thrower. Need to sand the casting remnants and make some touch-ups, as well as just sooth it to a little bit more of a worn look. I used the Dremel for the larger areas, and sanding sponges for the detail work.

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After a little clean up, I did a test fit of my mini switches which I picked up for cheap on Amazon. Since I’m not doing any lights at the moment, I went with purely cosmetic. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0799 ... UTF8&psc=1)

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Again, this is all just a test fitting before I paint.

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And things seem to be going together well. Throwing Chicken’s molds are very well done.

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I’m not sure what I’m going to do for the INTESIFY button yet. But it looks like I may have this all done by Halloween, if my city doesn’t cancel it. Fingers crossed.
#4940850
Just a few pics to update my progress on the wand.

I got everything sanded and drilled. I don’t know what size brass rod to use for the extender arm (and it won’t be extending anything at the moment), so I’m using a clothes hanger.

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I got all of them parts primed.

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And painted. I’m using the same paint as I did on the pack.

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Used good old Testor’s model paint for the banjos and the top of the Clippard.

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Then I started on the details. Adding Mack’s Factory dry rubs to the trigger box and installing switches.

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Finally, the gun body.

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Not shown is the damage I caused to the bottom white transfer decal when placing the switches on the body.

What kind of screws do I need for the banjos? I’ve seen some variations on the head style (round -vs-hex), but what about thread? I want it to screw into the aluminum trigger tip I got from GBFans, right?
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