Take this as you will, but it looks like everything is aligned the way it should be.
Could you have a warped bumper?
If you haven't already try laying your bumper down with the legs on a flat surface. That should tell you if one leg is at an odd angle.
Visually, it should line up just right. I don't know...
I'm going to fill in the holes with some Bondo fiberglass repair and some all-purpose putty and start over. I'll figure it out. Just frustrated. Things were going so well before and now nothing seems to go right. Oh, well.
Then, I decided to sculpt the ends of the bumper to make it longer as the underside nearly touched the cyclotrom. Obviously, not the finished products shown, just the drying putting.
Last thing I did was make absolutely sure that the bumper was level. And I checked to make sure the arms aren’t warped (they aren’t).
I’m going to spend a lot of time reshaping the ends of the bumper to make sure the lines are sharp.
Not perfect, but I'll take it.
Now, to repaint everything because it's scratched to hell with multicolored bonding agents smeared all over
This time, I would be prepared. I traced the outline onto a sheet of foamboard to use as a template. I mounted the brackets to the inside of the pack so they would hold their place, then pressed down hard onto the foam, creating and indent of where the brackets rested on the MB. Then, it was only a matter of placing the brackets in their indents, tracing the spot, and marking the holes. To make absolutely sure there were no errors, I used sticky-tac to hold the mounting brackets in place on the template and positioned the pack shell over them. All was perfect, so I marked it out.
But, you can probably guess what happened next…
While ¾ of the brackets were positioned correctly for the shell to slip over them, the one on the gun mount was off by a good half an inch. UGH! And the previously drilled ¼-20 threaded holes on my brackets no longer lined up with the holes in the shell, for some reason…Ugh, again.
So, I had to break out my nemesis, Bondo, to plug the holes in the MB.
And also, on the brackets, because the holes were off, but not far enough for a clean retapping. So, I had to bore them out and fill them.
While the Bondo dried, I went to work applying the decals that I have.
And I went ahead and redid the weathering on the ion end cap so that more black was in the center, like on the production props.
Now, with the Bondo dry, I was able to drill out my brackets through the hole in the shell to make sure they lined up right.
But I knew that there was no way I would feel comfortable with just Bondo supporting the weight. That’s when I thought it would be easier to use a nut to secure the screw, though I had no way to access the back of the bracket to fasten it with the shell on.
Quite the predicament. How to use the nut to secure the shell on if I can’t get to the nut?
The answer: leave the nut in place so the screw threads in and out like the threaded holes I originally had. And how do you keep the nut where it’s supposed to be? JB Weld.
Lots of JB Weld.
But after it dried, I noticed that my hands are covered with a powdery substance. I thought it was just that the paint wasn't dry, but is has been days now. Am I supposed to apply a clear coat?
I would try to see if maybe wiping the powdery substance off with a dry cloth would work first before using any other spray on top of it. Just make sure you use something that won't leave fibers to get stuck on the surface of the paint.
Same Paint as yours and its fine once I cleaned it up
Next, it was time to place the colored lenses that I purchased from GBFans. I was a little nervous because, even after quite a bit of sanding, the underside surface was still uneven. So, I decided to “weld” the acrylic discs in place using a plastic repair putty.
Seems sturdy and not as messy as glues or Bondo.
I think it looks pretty good.
Coming soon, it’s time for Gladys to meet ALICE.
Also, in the mail I got my correct straps and pads. The kidney pad has the GB2-style gray plastic clasp.
It took a little bit of work and some grunting, but I got the things on. Now, I have to take them off and wash them because they reek like stagnant salt water.
The good news is that with my new additions, plus what’s coming this week, I should have a completed shell by the weekend.
I think they look pretty good. Can't even tell they're painted resin.
Now, I have been working and working on this ribbon cable, trying to decrease the stiffness in it, but it is as stubborn as I am. I mounted it anyway.
Then, I put on the red hoses.
Next, the yellow and blue hoses, the split loom, and the bumper.
And, finally, the injector lines.
This wouldn’t be an update from me unless there was some obnoxious problem that I ran into. And here it is. My Clippard elbow on the ion end cap snapped at the threads! No, I didn’t over-tighten it. I was threading it by hand and had only gone a few twists, and I’m no Superman. JB Weld to the rescue—hopefully.
With any luck, I’ll get the pack finished and mounted this weekend. Then, all I have to do is wait for my wand kit.
I’m not adding lights/sound just yet. I’ve got two kids and Christmas is looming. I probably won’t even go into that much detail for the wand; leave it as a wearable prop without all the bells and whistles.
I have a white mesh from a gutter cover and some silver metal mesh from a filter, but they just fall out. I have tried wrapping them around some pipe insulation foam, but when I cram the foam into the filter, it shoves the mesh out of place.
Besides the gun hook, this is the last thing I need to complete my pack's body.
SpiderFan2k3 wrote: ↑September 25th, 2020, 2:21 pm I'm stuck on the mesh screen for inside the N-filter. Not sure exactly what to use, or how to get it to stay put.I used mesh to fix damaged bodywork, and I just hot-glued it in place.
Alternately what about duct tape?
Though if you want something a bit more robust, a metal sleeve to fit it over, which'd hold it inside the inner diameter of the N-Filter?
Might try rubber cement in between the holes, or maybe wads of sticky-tack.
The company I work for makes these little filters for our breather caps.
They’re about 2 inches in diameter and soft enough to expand into tight places.
The trouble was the color and being able to get the thing down inside the cast N-filter. So, I put together a few leftovers. Some 2-inch rubber washers and some carriage bolts.
And tightened with a nut (but not too tight because it smooshed everything out of shape). The only thing left was the color, but some black electrical tape fixed that.
And a little rubber cement to hold the gutter mesh in place…
And it fit just fine.
Now, with the carriage bolt, I can easily remove the thing. Also, I may end up gluing a magnet in the base of the filter so that it would hold tight, but still be able to be removed when needed.
Since I'm not doing lights and sound just yet, but I want to have some details, what kind/size of toggle switches should I get?
After a little clean up, I did a test fit of my mini switches which I picked up for cheap on Amazon. Since I’m not doing any lights at the moment, I went with purely cosmetic. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0799 ... UTF8&psc=1)
Again, this is all just a test fitting before I paint.
And things seem to be going together well. Throwing Chicken’s molds are very well done.
I’m not sure what I’m going to do for the INTESIFY button yet. But it looks like I may have this all done by Halloween, if my city doesn’t cancel it. Fingers crossed.
I got everything sanded and drilled. I don’t know what size brass rod to use for the extender arm (and it won’t be extending anything at the moment), so I’m using a clothes hanger.
I got all of them parts primed.
And painted. I’m using the same paint as I did on the pack.
Used good old Testor’s model paint for the banjos and the top of the Clippard.
Then I started on the details. Adding Mack’s Factory dry rubs to the trigger box and installing switches.
Finally, the gun body.
Not shown is the damage I caused to the bottom white transfer decal when placing the switches on the body.
What kind of screws do I need for the banjos? I’ve seen some variations on the head style (round -vs-hex), but what about thread? I want it to screw into the aluminum trigger tip I got from GBFans, right?
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