By tobycj
#4944363
If you want real arcoelectric lights for the wand (red slo-blo and clear on top next to the hat light) then Farnell are the cheapest place in the UK, I think they're about £3-4 each from memory.
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By l3w1sb159
#4944365
Not sure if I want the proper incandescent bulbs as they pull a lot of power so might just stay with LEDs under the cliplites.

I've had a look at Radwell and they've got a few piece's that will come in handy, just bummed trying to find nycoil tubing on there that isn't in 100 meter spools for over £100

I only need like 3 feet!
By tobycj
#4944383
You just gut the bulb from them and put an led in, so they just act like a cover is all. It's just a nice little more accurate touch.

If you manage to find any nycoil tubing let me know, would love to get some too!
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By l3w1sb159
#4944384
Ah right, I assume the real covers are more accurate than the gbfans led cliplites.
It's like finding the holy grail of tubing...
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By l3w1sb159
#4944389
So I got to work attaching the bracket to the injectors and where it will attach to the shell.
I used a drill bit to keep the injectors in place while I marked the hole locations on the shell and injectors.

So two 5mm holes for the rivets to fit through the shell, and two 3.2mm holes tapped for m4 cap head bolts into the side of the injectors.

Bosh.

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User avatar
By l3w1sb159
#4944399
I was a bit worried of the rivets bursting the resin so I decided to do it that way round, plus it seems pretty sturdy as it is now.

I'll be putting the rivets through from the other side when I assemble it all properly as I know theres a picture of a screen used pack with rivet heads visible on the inside of the shell like so...

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By Darth_Egon
#4944400
What I did is pop the stem from the rivets just hold them with pliers and hit it . I epoxied them in place so that way they wouldn’t crack the tubes. Looks like it’s riveted but not lol
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By JWils23
#4944403
l3w1sb159 wrote: January 16th, 2021, 12:54 pm I was a bit worried of the rivets bursting the resin so I decided to do it that way round, plus it seems pretty sturdy as it is now.

I'll be putting the rivets through from the other side when I assemble it all properly as I know theres a picture of a screen used pack with rivet heads visible on the inside of the shell like so...

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I tried to mimic this detail without actually using rivets since I wanted to be able to easily remove the injectors and bracket should anything need repair. I used some smaller socket cap screws to imitate the little stem nubs on the back of a pulled rivet. Once it’s all painted black I think it came out looking close. Love the obscure details!
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By l3w1sb159
#4944867
After a long wait I got the last of my parts from BenofKent, and they did not disappoint!
All aluminium, shock mount, v-hook male & female, ribbon cable clamp, ion arm cap with copper rods. Plus a GB2 ribbon cable, brass straights replicas and legris elbow replicas.

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So first off I set about finishing off the ion arm, I had already marked and drilled pilot holes for the elbows and resistors so it was just a matter of drilling and tapping the holes for each.
Once they were attached I cut the tube to size.
Attaching the ion arm cap, I simply lined it up on the front face and marked the holes. Unfortunately once the holes were drilled and tapped it turned out they were slightly off so the cap is on the piss a bit.... somewhat annoying. But it can be a little quirky flaw to my pack.

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Next I finished off the HGA by attaching the last elbow with a 4mm hole and an m5 tap. I had already marked out drilled and screwed in the 4 m6 bolts and clippard elbow, aswell as drilling and counter sinking the hole for the central bolt to attach it to the shell using stefans plans and reference pics to find the location. I've put the clippard elbow slightly higher on mine to mirror the spengler pack look.

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And finally the last elbow in the cyclotron, I eyeballed the position from stefans plans and other reference pics.

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Then I moved onto sorting out the ribbon cable and its clamp. Again using stefans plans I eyeballed the location of the clamp in relation to the filler plug and cyclotron side plates. You know the drill - pilot/4mm hole/m5 tap
I also used the clamp to cut the cable to match the curve of the cyclotron.

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After that I threaded my shiny new shock mount onto the m6 coach bolt ready from installing the bumper, although I did have to chop the rest of the bolt down to about 12mm past the bumper to thread it on properly as only half of the shaft inside the shock mount was tapped which made it stop halfway down the original length of the bolt.

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And last but not least, the v-hook.
Again, I used stefans plans and reference pics to eyeball the location... as accuracy is my top priority...
Once I had marked the holes I drilled 4.5mm clearance holes and it fit just right.

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Then came sorting out the inside of the shell, as I had planned to use some leftover 3mm aluminium plate for some extra support for the hook. But in order to get the plate to sit flat I had to dremel down the mountain range where it needed to go. Once it sat fairly flat I marked the holes and drilled for clearance. Should be a fairly sturdy mount for when I get my Throwing Chicken thrower kit.

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The straights need a 9mm hole once I get a drillbit big enough, as they dont have a thread I'll just push them in and epoxy them from the inside so they dont fall out.

And as far as I know, that is everything to be dry fit before painting...

As it's going to be a few months before its warm enough here to even think about starting painting I'll leave this here..
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:sigh:
Last edited by l3w1sb159 on February 18th, 2021, 12:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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By l3w1sb159
#4945912
Just a quick little update.
While I'm waiting for various orders to arrive I thought I'd give my alice frame a lick of black paint and once it was dry, I sorted out the foam on top of the frame that I got from the gbfans shop. Wrapped in some black gaffer tape, it looks fairly screen accurate and yes I like the little bit of white showing through....

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